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"The
Sandman Section"
Ask any woodworking question.
I’m
particularly thrilled to have Steve Pappas, founder and chairman of S.J. Pappas, Inc. a
successful Connecticut woodworking shop, as the expert for the “Sandman.”
Over the years Steve has created many outstanding woodworking designs especially in
furniture and cabinets. Steve will answer your woodworking questions.
If you
want to ask the Sandman a woodworking question, please send your e-mails to
Contact Us.
Marv
Beloff
Question asked by: Larry Weber
Subject: Sanding
Question: What grit pattern should I use to send a pine furniture project, i.e.
50, 80, 100, 150, 220 ...where do I stop?
Answer: Dear Larry, First, let’s deal with where you start and understand the
consequence and affect the grit will have on your finish. The lower the grit the more
porous and absorbent will be the pine. Of course there is a difference in the hardness of
pines that should also be considered. The softer the material the more porous the piece
and the darker will be the finish. The higher the grit the more you polish the wood and
close the pores so that less stain will penetrate causing a lighter finish. Therefore, the
first step should be to arrive at the color you desire. To achieve that color find a test
strip and sand with and 80 grit, 100 grit, 120 grit, and 150 grit. Mark the 4 spots as to
grit and then stain them. Now you will be able to choose your preferred color and the
grit. Yours for a fine furniture finish, The Sandman
- Monday, March 15, 1999 at 10:32:15 (EST)
Question asked by: Kathryn Sandman
Subject: Stripping furniture
Question: Can I remove old paint or varnish from furniture by sanding, or do I
have to use one of those heat or chemical strippers? (By the way ..Yes, that's my real
name.)
Answer: Dear Kathryn, You should use a stripper - preferably chemical. Once it is
completely stripped use appropriate sanding - start perhaps with a 150 grit or 120 grit.
Unless we were advised regarding the piece of furniture and the kind of wood - it is
difficult to recommend the exact order of grit. Best of luck! Take your time - stripping
is a long tedious process. Happy sanding! The Sandman
- Tuesday, March 02, 1999 at 21:30:41 (EST)
Question asked by: Kerry Johnson
Subject: sanding swirls
Question: How do I eliminate the swirls that a random orbit sander leaves? In
some woods I can't seem to notice them, but in my pine projects, they go unnoticed until
the stain goes on, then it's too late, I believe. It looks horrible! Is it back to the
hand sanding? Please help!
Answer: Dear Kerry, Thanks for "asking the Sandman." The difference is
that the softer the wood the greater the swirls. Pnderosa Pine is harder - Eastern Pine is
less hard and Sugar Pine is the softest and most likely to swirl. First - experiment with
a practice piece of the material - stained. There are expensive sanders that cause less
swirls. Check on them at your hardware store. However, yes Kerry, it is "basck to
hand sanding." That is my preference - I find it pleasing, less difficult, quick and
most successful. There is nothing like the hand! Start with 150 grit. Go straight! You
should be able to eliminate the swirls and enjoy doing it. Happy sanding! The Sandman
- Wednesday, February 24, 1999 at 11:35:32 (EST)
Question asked by: Gary Kimball
Subject: Drilling staraight holes through stock blanks
Question: I am making a custom gun stock that requires a 1/4"diameter hole
to be drilled about 12" deep, STRAIGHT through a piece of highly figured english
walnut.The hole will be drilled into the end grain and must be straight because the width
of the stock is only 1 and 1/2". Any suggestions on how to make a staight hole given
these parameters will be very much appreciated. Incidentally,I have a pretty well equipped
shop;just in case this would figure into your answer. Thank You.
Answer: Dear Gary, 1. get 14" X 1/4" drill 2. set up drill press with
base to lock the gun stock - square. 3. take 2" X 2" X 8" and slowly drill
1/4" hole - plumb - as guide 4. hold 2" X 2" X 8" on to the securely
"fixed on end" gunstock precisely where you want the hole. 5. slowly and
carefully crank the drill press down until you start your hole in the gun stock. (you
would be wise to test the idea first on another piece of wood - practice) 6. After you
have started the hole cut 1" off the 2 X 2 guilde - drill again - repeat slowly until
the job is completed. All the best, The Sandman
- Friday, February 05, 1999 at 10:07:03 (EST)
Question asked by: Ken Gaylord
Subject: Cutting Board
Question: I have a raw piece of lumber used in construction for center beam of
house. (consisting of 10- 2x6"s commercially joined). I would like to produce a roll
around cutting board/table. I need to know what sort of product I could coat it with
(after sanding and staining) that would be best for its intended purpose.
thanks, K.G.
Answer: Dear Ken, The answer to your question regarding the finish on your rolling
cutting board/table is vegetable oil. If the wood sands up well and the surface is
attractive I would advise that you not stain - just oil. But if you feel the need to stain
in order to change the natural color you can do so. In any case brush or wipe on two coats
of vegetable oil. If the surface seems to dry out you can recoat as needed. Thanks for
stopping by, come back often!
All the best for smooth sailing,
Sandman
- Monday, January 04, 1999 at 10:06:57 (EST)
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